
Thailand
(858km -
20days)
Day 1 - 11 February - Bangkok
I was
excited to meet Janice and Chris who arrived all
stiff and puffy-eyed after a 24-hour flight from
Cape Town. We wasted no time at all to explore the
Khao San Road area where we drank a few beers and
ate a few
bugs.
Yes, we did indeed try cricket, frog, silkworm and
grasshopper, all served with a spray of soy sauces
and a dash of pepper. For Janice, it was familiar
territory, and it seemed that Chris enjoyed the
madness of Banglampu as we strolled the crowded
streets, nibbling from food stalls.
Day 2 – 12 February – Bangkok
Janice
and Chris spent the morning putting their bicycles
back together. As the guesthouse where we were
staying was closing at the end of the month, they
could not leave their bike boxes there, and we went
looking for another guesthouse where we could store
their bits and pieces until their return. That
evening we did my budget “sunset cruise” on the
River Pyraja, meaning that we caught the late ferry
to its final destination and boarded the last boat
back to our abode. All this for 30 TB. We were
lucky, and it was a beautiful evening. We snacked on
a few nibbles from the night market and then settled
in for our nightly beer.
Day 3 – 13 February - Bangkok
We were
up at 6 am. I still don’t believe that, but yes, we
woke up at 6 am. Off I went to explore Bangkok with
my jet-lagged guests, LOL.
We
witnessed bare-foot monks collecting food and saw
the sun rising over the Royal Palace. It was a real
privilege to walk the city’s ancient monuments
without a soul in sight.
Once
back at our room we found a home for Janice and
Chris’s bike boxes and then went on a little test
ride to see how the bicycles were performing. We
weaved through the Bangkok traffic until it all got
too much and returned to our guesthouse to explore
the rest of Bangkok by river ferry and on foot. On
our way to China Town, we popped in at the very
impressive and newly renovated Temple of Dawn,
always an awe-inspiring sight. Chris claimed that we
must have walked at least 17 kilometres but, in
truth, it was most likely more like six or seven.
Day 4 – 14 February - Bangkok – Ayuthaya – 50 km
(&30 km by taxi)
We
arranged for “Taxi4bikes” to pick us up and take us
30 kilometres outside the city in the direction of
Ayutthaya. I was impressed with
the
service as, firstly, the driver phoned to let us
know that he was stuck in traffic and would be 30
minutes late. On his arrival, he had a roof rack
that could accommodate three bikes. We had to,
however, remove the front wheels and he also had
three wheel covers. The taxi driver dropped us at
Rangsit station, making for an easy escape out of
the city. We loaded our bikes with the help of many
onlookers and helpers and were soon on our way. Whoo
woo! The fun had begun!
It took
us no time at all to find the small roads. From
Rangsit Station to Ayuthaya was a short and lovely
rural ride through typical Thai countryside. At
first, we followed the Prem Prachakon canal past
temples, simple eateries, and canal-side villages.
We watched people going about their daily lives,
fishing, preparing food, worshipping and working in
the rice paddies. We ambled along, slowly enjoying
views of bright green rice fields, banana
plantations and the odd ancient ruin along the way.
On reaching Ayuthaya, we headed straight for Baan
Lotus Guesthouse, a lovely old wooden schoolhouse
building on large grounds. After a quick shower, we
were off to one of the restaurants for supper and
beer.
Day 5 – 15 February - Ayuthaya – 26 km
Day 6 – 16 February - Ayuthaya – Lopburi – 68 km
We
decided to leave as early as possible to try and
beat the heat, and we were on the road shortly after
7 am. I was pleased with our early start, even
though I'm a late starter. The light was beautiful,
and it was good to be out in the cooler morning air.
No sooner had we left, and we were already on the
smaller roads. We cycled past the elephant kraal,
and I felt sorry for those lovely animals, all
chained and domesticated. I understand just too well
that it is a practice that has been part of the Thai
culture for millenniums. Still, I don’t like it or
support elephant rides.
We
continued on the back roads through farmlands, and
although it was early, it was already hot, making
for challenging riding, especially for new riders.
The route also became far too busy to my liking, and
we soon turned off onto an even smaller road. It
turned out to be a lovely ride as we cycled past
bright green rice paddies, fish drying in the sun
and large
Buddha statues. In fact, the road was so small it
turned to a narrow dirt road.
Fortunately, we found a paved road again, and then
it was onto Lopburi where we arrived around 14h00.
It was Chinese New Year, and we strolled the crowded
street with 1000’s of others enjoying all there was
to see. Most people were beautifully dressed in
traditional Thai costumes, and all the historic
ruins were lit and open to the public. What a sight
it was. All the trees were covered in fairy lights,
and visitors were entertained by cultural shows,
music and fireworks.
Day 7 - 17 February – Lopburi
The
weather forecast predicted a high of 38˚C and we
decided to stay put for the day. Chris was finding
the heat exhausting and, as 38˚C was hot by anyone’s
standards,
we spent the day in Lopburi where the New Year’s
celebrations were still underway. We also each
invested in a typical Thai hat to keep the
anticipated heat off our heads. I don’t know if it
will work, we will have to wait and see. The rest of
the day we used for updating photos, journal entries
and catching up with friends and family at home.
Although the weather prediction is 37/38˚C for the
next few days we will move on in the morning.
Day 8 - 18 February – Lopburi – Pasak Jolasit Dam –
65 km
We left
NooM Guesthouse as soon as we could to take maximum
advantage of the “cooler” morning air. I say
“cooler” as in fact it is not much cooler in the
morning than later in the day. Along the way, we
stopped at an organic market that sold interesting
food and herbal products. Again, it was a scorcher
and we stopped as often as possible and, in the
process, met some interesting people.
Towards
the end of the day we reached Pasak Jolasit dam, and
although it was still early, we decided to camp
there for the night. It was a fantastic spot to put
our tents under the trees, and with a great view of
the dam and a short walk from the ablutions. After
sunset, we took a stroll to the restaurant located
outside the gate of the dam's recreation area and
had a fantastic meal without being able to speak a
word of Thai or read the menu.
Day 9 - 19 February - Pasak Chonlasit Dam – Wat Nong
Bong – 67 km
Waking
up next to a dam is always a pleasure, and there was
the tiniest bit of a cool air coming off the water
as we packed up. We had
our
coffee and oats while watching the sun trying to
shine through the ever-present haze (which we think
is from burning the sugarcane fields)
It was
a pleasurable ride along the opposite side of the
dam past large areas of sugarcane fields as well as
cassava plantations. Our first stop of the day was
at the dam’s White Buddha. We cycled along, passing
workers busy cutting the sugarcane and we wondered
what all was hiding in those fields; rats, snakes
and many other things I guess. At around 11h00 we
reached a waterfall where we bought a watermelon and
spent some time soaking our feet in the stream. We
ate our watermelon and enjoyed the relative coolness
of the picnic area. Soon it was time to saddle up
again, and we headed further north.
Janice
had the first flat tyre of the trip, which took
surprisingly long to fix. Soon after fixing the flat
it was time to start looking for a place to pitch
our tents. Wat Nong Bong (a Buddhist temple) came
just at the right time. We stocked up with food from
the smalls store across the road and then asked the
monks for permission to camp at the temple. It was a
very welcoming temple, and the monks pointed us to
the Wat (temple) where they gave us sleeping mats
and requested us to speak to the students about our
trip in the morning. Janice was appointed to do the
talking and Chris cooked our instant noodles on his
small stove, which we ate while listening to the
monks chanting their prayers.
Day 10 - 20 February – Wat Nong Bong – Wat Ban Na
Samakee – 50 km
We were
fed breakfast by the monks, a simple but delicious
dish of fried noodles. Janice (as requested the
previous night) spent a few
minutes
talking to the school kids about our trip.
Afterwards, we attempted to adjust the disc brakes
on Janice’s bicycle. None of us knew anything about
disc brakes, but after “YouTubing” we managed to
free the wheel and were on our way. Thank you,
YouTube!
We
continued north and, like the previous day, we
passed large sugarcane plantations. It is harvesting
time, and we saw many large trucks with sugarcane
heading for the market. The plan was to cycle 34
kilometres to the Si Chep Historic Park and then
continue for another 30 or 40 kilometres after that.
Chris, however, found the heat unbearable and we
hung around in the shade at the Historic Park until
16h00. It was not a bad way to spend the afternoon.
Chris still had enough energy to cycle a further 10
kilometres to where we found another Buddhist
temple.
The
friendly monks allowed us to sleep in the Wat and
even gave us mattresses as well as pillows. The
temple dogs were, however, not so friendly.
After a
serious discussion, the original route was changed
and shortened to 50 kilometres a day, starting at
7h00 and ending the ride at around 11h00. Wild
camping at 11h00 in the heat will be a challenge,
but I'm convinced that we will manage. There is
always a plan to be made. Our nightly camping spot
mostly depends on where we can find ice, which Chris
needs to keep his diabetic medication at optimum
temperature. Even with all these challenges, I’m
sure that we can make this trip work to the
enjoyment of all! Tomorrow is a new day and a new
challenge.
Day 11 - 21 February - Wat Ban Na Samakee – Wat Sap
Ta Khaek - 50 km
We were
up at the ungodly hour of five in the morning. We
packed up in the dark, and by the time it got light,
we were ready to roll. The things I do for friends!
LOL. We waved goodbye to the monks and rode along
slowly, with the sun peeking through a smoky haze.
We
cycled together along back roads and through
farmlands, passing villagers cutting sugarcane by
hand and dodging muddy puddles
from the previous night's rain. We stopped every so
often to take a break to give the backsides and
shoulders a rest. Our little back road turned into a
dirt road, which we followed along with two-wheel
tractors, trucks, and monks collecting food. By
11h00, we had managed to do only 38 kilometres, but
as arranged, we ended the day's ride and found a
conveniently located roadside gazebo to rest under.
We hung around under the gazebo till 15h00 and then
cycled to the nearby temple to ask permission to
sleep there for the night. Although this was much
earlier than I like to do this, we had had enough of
sitting by the roadside.
The
temple was a very basic one, with only one dusty
undercover area and a large dirt yard that was swept
continuously. The sweeping caused more dust than the
few leaves gathered there were worth. Cleaning the
undercover area kept us busy for a while. We dusted
the Buddha, lit a few incense sticks, and settled in
for the long night ahead.
Day 12 - 22 February - Wat Sap Ta Khaek – Ban Non
Sa-at – 50 km
For the
first 15 kilometres, the road leads straight up the
mountain, where we encountered a few steep inclines.
It was a slower than usual process as we edged our
way higher and higher. After about 10 kilometres, we
turned off onto an even smaller road to avoid
crossing the high pass, but it was still a
pushing-up-the-hill day. Once I reached the top of a
hill, I would run down and push Chris’s bike up the
hill,
then
cycle my own up the next hill and run down again,
LOL. It was, however, a stunning ride on a rural
road, past tiny villages where locals stared,
slack-jawed, as we made our way down the pass along
the muddy track.
In the
process, we passed small settlements with basic
wooden houses on stilts. Families were swinging in
hammocks underneath the homes while kids ran amok
and livestock had the run of the place. Soon, we
found our way back to a paved road with stunning
scenery in the distance. We could see the higher
mountains to our right and were pleased that we had
not taken that way. At around 15h00, we cycled into
the tiny village of Ban Non Sa-at, where we found a
temple in which to spend the night. Like the
previous night, we swept the half-covered hall,
dusted the Buddha, and lit a few incense sticks. I
ate my noodle soup that I bought earlier in the day,
Janice, not being a big eater, only had a small tin
of sardines in tomato sauce (she claimed she also
had a quarter pack of instant noodles), and Chris
enjoyed cup noodles with a tin of sardines. My
humble (or not so humble, LOL) opinion is that this
is not enough for a full day of cycle touring. We
can, however, only eat what we can and each person
must do what is best for them, I can just give
advice.
Day 13 - 23 February - Ban Non-Sa-at – Wat Song Sila
– 50 km
The
early morning wake-up call was getting to my guests
as none heard the alarm go off. It was still
bucketing down with rain when we rose at past five.
There was, however, enough time to pack up and be on
the road by 7h00. We donned our plastic raincoats
and set off in a drizzle.
It
was a slow process as we ambled along an excellent
paved road, the slight breeze kept us cool, and we
stopped every 10 kilometres or so to stretch our
neck and shoulder muscles. At one of the many
roadside stalls, we bought a watermelon, and that
went down rather well. The shop owner also gave us a
bag of bananas, making for an impromptu fruit salad.
Around midday, we stopped for our usual noodle soup,
after which we carried on to the tiny community of
Ban Huabua. I don’t think any foreigner has ever
stayed overnight in Ban Huabua. Even the local
temple was abandoned. Eventually, we found someone
to ask if we could camp under a wooden structure on
stilts, situated on the corner of the property. By
the time we were ready to eat, even the roadside
restaurants were closed, and we had to make do with
our usual cup of noodles.
Day 14 - 24 February - Wat Song Sila – Ban Thaen -
66 km
The
colder weather made for a lovely but nippy early
morning ride. Chris was on fire and set off at a
good pace with Janice and me in tow. The early
morning light made the colours pop, and the rice
paddies looked even greener than before. Lotus
flowers reflected in muddy ponds as we made our way
past smoky early morning food stalls. Butchers were
selling
meat
on the pavement while farmers carted long-eared cows
to the market.
We made
a good time stopping at regular intervals to fill up
with water. Around lunchtime we stopped for a bite
to eat, Chris had a quick nap after which we
continued to Ban Thaen, stopping for coconut juice
along the way. We reached Ban Thean around 4 pm,
found a Buddhist temple and asked the chap sweeping
the yard if we could camp there. He indicated that
he understood what we said and pointed us to an
undercover area where we could sleep. We were not
entirely sure that this was permission, but after
what appeared to be a long time, the head-monk
arrived. The monk indicated that it was OK and we
settled in.
I
walked across the road and found a small shop
selling food. I bought a soup as takeaway and later
discovered that the soup contained a rather unusual
animal. It was extremely bony but delicious; all
Thai food is delicious. "Aroi mak mak!" as they say
in Thailand.
Day 15 - 25 February - Ban Thaen - Khon Kaen – 60 km
It was
a warm night, and none of us used our tents, only
our sleeping mats. The mozzies did not seem to be a
problem as we had a few mosquito coils going and
even the temple dogs stayed away. One hardly ever
oversleeps at a temple as the gong is sounded at
first light, announcing the time to wake up. This
also seems to get the temple dogs howling, and even
the deepest of sleeper will be woken by the racket!
As we
did not have to take our tents down we were quick in
packing up and in time to witness a most stunning
sunrise. What a fantastic t ime
of the day it is to be out. Chris was thankful for
the cooler morning air and Janice and I were happy
to take full advantage of the morning light to
practice our photography. We opted for the rural
road instead of taking the main road to Khon Kaen.
The path led us through the tiniest of settlements
where both water buffalo and cows were still kept in
the front yard. It was Sunday, and the village folk
were going about their Sunday chores, some doing
necessary household maintenance and another foraging
for food or making charcoal. In the process, we met
some lovely people, albeit not able to speak to any
of them.
By
lunchtime, it was however hot again, and we stopped
to take a break at a very conveniently located 7/11.
Then it was onwards to Khon Kaen where we found a
bicycle shop for me to have my front wheel seen to
that had a slight wobble. Once that was sorted, I
paid the small amount of 20 Thai Baht, and we cycled
into the centre of town where we found a hotel room
for a change.
Day 16 - 26 February – Khon Khaen
We
spent the day doing laundry, shopping for headlamps
and going back to the bicycle shop to add a headset
extension to both Janice’s
and
Chris’s bikes. That evening Chris made us some Cape
Velvet Liqueur, lovely stuff.
Day 17 - 27 February – Khon Kaen – Ban Pa Kho Temple
– 80 km
We were
on the road before 7h00 and all felt fresh and
energetic with the result that we went too far and
too fast. We followed the main road, something that
never makes for very exciting riding. It, however,
came with large amounts of facilities and we passed
a multitude of fuel stations, all with food and
ablution facilities. The roadside stalls mostly sold
bamboo craft and furniture and, once again, I was
amazed at the strength of bamboo.
I much
prefer Chris to ride up front, allowing him to set
his own pace and stopping whenever he feels the
need. After our 50-kilometre break, I took the lead
and after a toilet stop I discovered that there was
no one in sight. I was convinced that they did not
overtake me but I could see no one behind me. I
cycled back along the road to a high point and
still
there was no sign of either Janice or Chris. I
phoned and sent messages but no one answered or
replied. Eventually, I flagged down a motorbike who
informed me that they spotted two cyclists a few
kilometres back. Phew, at least they did not
disappear; instead, Chris had decided to take a nap,
which I was unaware of. Eventually, we met up again
and cycled the last few kilometres to where we could
find a Wat to camp. Chris was exhausted and went
straight to bed.
I had a
feeling that there was a communication gap, both in
frequency of stopping, distance and overnight
accommodation, even though the next day’s route is
discussed and send to all. I will try and make it
clearer from now on.
Day 18 - 28 February - Ban Pa Kho Temple – Wat Pho
Chum Pattanaram – 63 km
An
uneventful day. I will not go into detail but this
trip is going pear-shaped. My guests are accusing me
of being verbally inept and take offence that I send
daily
messages
of what to expect the following day. The reason I do
this is that guests can look back to see what is
planned for the following day, a tool especially
handy for a person who is verbally challenged! I,
therefore, do not see why someone should be offended
by the messages, instead they should be thankful.
Day 19 - 1 March – Wat Pho Chum Pattanaram – Nong
Khai – 50 km
To be
quite honest, I just about had enough of the verbal
abuse and I do not tolerate people insulting me or
speaking to me in an aggressive tone of voice while
I’m doing someone a favour. Everything done so far
was to make the trip as comfortable and enjoyable as
possible for everyone. From getting up at some
ungodly hour of the morning so we could cycle in the
cooler morning air, to sitting in the shade next to
the road in the heat of the day. I bought hats and
suggested wetting cloths and hats, I urged everyone
to eat and drink sufficiently. I pushed Chris’s
bicycle for him up the hills, I cycled at 8km/h and
allowed Chris to take the lead so he did not have to
feel pressurised. None of this was for my pleasure
but it was purely as a favour to my guests. I’m not
being paid for my service,
it is just a favour I’m doing for friends.
Here I
must add that a detailed itinerary was prepared with
a full description of the day, as well as a map of
the route and daily distance. Not once did anyone
come back to me saying that it did not suit them. I,
therefore, excepted that it was a route and distance
agreed upon. I understand fully that 80 kilometres a
day and 34˚C does not sound undoable, sitting on the
sofa in your lounge. I, therefore, have sympathy for
anyone who comes to cycle tour in Southeast Asia,
and I will go out of my way to make the trip as
comfortable and enjoyable as possible. I will,
however, not tolerate being used or insulted.
Day 20 - 2 March - Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane,
Lao – 33 km
We
cycled the 10 kilometres or so to the border and
crossed the Mekong River into Lao and then
discovered that neither Chris nor Janice was given
an exit stamp. Their departure cards were not filled
in and the officer told them to fill it in, which
they did and left! LOL. We cycled back across the
river, got the stamps and were soon back at the Lao
immigration to get our visas.
It was
a short ride into Vientiane where we found a room
and took a walk to get new SIM cards and explore the
city. That evening we had a meal at one of the many
restaurants along the riverfront. Even at 9 pm, it
was still extremely warm and the weather forecast
for the following few days did not look good for
cycling, varying between 36 – 38˚C.

Laos
(468km -
11days)
Day 21 - 3 March - Vientiane – Dokphet Guesthouse,
Hai – 73 km
It
was extremely hot and we left early, stopping at the
monument and the Wat. The road to the Buddha park
was very bad so we gave it a miss and followed the
main road. Chris did extremely well and we cycled to
our destination without having lunch or a nap.
Outside our guesthouse was a small local restaurant
that served noodle soup and that was what we had. We
met a few locals from Vientianne. If we did not
leave, we would have become very drunk as they kept
buying beer and offering it around.
Day 22 - 4 March - Dokphet Guesthouse – Saunmaiket
Hongxaikham Guesthouse - 65 km
With
the weather forecast indicating temperatures between
36 – 38˚C, we decided to leave even earlier than
usual! I did not think that possible! Just after
6h00, we were on the road. Our first stop was around
15 kilometres, and about four kilometres later
Janice discovered that she left her reading glasses
behind. As it was a short distance back to our
previous
stop (about four kilometres), Chris and I continued
while Janice cycled back to look for her glasses.
After
cycling another 15 kilometres, there was still no
sign of Janice. After contacting her, we discovered
that she could not find the place where we stopped,
and in the process, she cycled all the way back to
where we started! Chris and I continued slowly,
hoping that she would catch up. The previous night
we made the decision to cycle only until 13h00 and
then find a guesthouse or campsite. Around that
time, we found a roadside guesthouse where we waited
for Janice to arrive. It was a rather long day on
the road for her – 100 kilometres in all! Well done,
Janice, on your first 100 kilometres and first solo
ride! Your rock, girl!
Day 23 - 5 March - Saunmaiket Hongxaikham Guesthouse
– Pakkading Buddhist temple – 60 km
It is
surprisingly cold in the early morning and I had to
stop and buy a long-sleeved sweater along the road.
Many of the roadside restaurants will have a rail of
clothing but I was not sure if it was for sale or if
it was their laundry, LOL. With us only cycling half
days we were in the position of arriving at the
temple very early. Asking to camp at such an early
hour always feels somewhat awkward.
The
monk we spoke to pointed us to a room which we first
scrubbed clean. Although the building appeared very
new, the bathroom needed a good scrubbing. No sooner
had we sat down and the head monk arrived and
indicated that we could not sleep there but had to
move to the basement. The basement area was a large
tiled room which we, once again, had to clean. It
was clearly a place where the down-and-out would
overnight or otherwise one of the monks had a drug
problem.
Day 24 - 6 March – Pakkading Buddhist temple -
Somejainuek Guesthouse – 62 km
We left
our sparkling clean room shortly after 6h00, not
even the monks were up yet. We crossed the Nam
Kading river, one of the main
tributaries
of the Mekong River. The Pakkading Bridge is a
Russian-built bridge where truck drivers often stop
to light a cigarette before crossing the bridge and
then throw the lit cigarette in the Nam Kading
river. The reason being is to appease the water
serpent that is believed to live in the river mouth.
At
first, it was cool and we also picked up a good
tailwind. The favourable condition did, however, not
last and soon it was another scorcher, this time
with a headwind thrown in. Around 13h00 we came upon
a roadside guesthouse with a very convenient
restaurant located across the road.
Day 25 - 7 March - Somejainuek Guesthouse – Roadside
Guesthouse – 64 km
We were
up and packing by 5h00 and were on the road at first
light. The road was gently undulating as we slowly
made our way south, past friendly kids shouting,
“Sabaidi falang”. Some seemed to be on the cautious
side and kept their distance. We stopped at roadside
shops for water and snacks and drank sugarcane juice
along the way. We passed fascinating markets where
stall owners sold Dung beetle balls with larva
inside as well as grilled and raw rats and squirrel.
Besides the usual crabs, eels and other fishy things
they also sold live lizards by the bag-full and
other exotic (or illegal) animals.
Day 26 & 27 - 8 - 9 March – Roadside Guesthouse –
Thakhek – 27 km
Even
though it was a short day, we still left early to
make the best of the cooler weather. We stopped at
the “Great Wall of Lao”, or Kamphaeng Nyak wall.
This is
actually
a geological phenomenon, but its physical
resemblance to a man-made structure has given rise
to many Lao myths, some claiming that it was built
as a defence system and others claiming that it was
built to stem the flood waters of the Mekong.
Close
to Thakhek we turned off onto a smaller road and
found interesting villages right on the Mekong. The
Lao baguette or Khao Jee is one of the most famous
street foods in Laos, stuffed with salad, pate,
chilli paste and cold meats. The baguette is usually
warmed on coals, making for a crispy and delightful
snack. There is no better place to eat it than right
there, on the pavement.
We
arrived in Thakhek early and found a room at the
Souksomboun Hotel, situated
across
the road from the Mekong River. With outside motel
style rooms, it’s perfect for cyclists, as we could
wheel our bikes right into the room.
The
following day was a rest day, and we organised a
tuc-tuc to take us to see a few of the nearby caves.
It was a relaxing morning, and we were home by
14h00.
I know
I have written about the Secret War in Lao on many
occasions, but every time I’m here and see people
missing limbs, the reality of this war becomes real.
I quote from Legaciesofwar.org:
“From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more than two
million tons of ordnance on Laos during 580,000
bombing missions—equal to a planeload of bombs every
8 minutes, 24-hours a day, for 9 years – making Laos
the most heavily bombed country per capita in
history. Up to a third of the bombs dropped did not
explode, leaving Laos contaminated with vast
quantities of unexploded ordnance (UXO).”
Day 28 - 10 March – Thakhek – Savannakhet – 102 km
We
started bright and early again, intending to do our
usual 60/65 kilometres. We
followed
the river road which turned out very interesting as
we cycled through a multitude of small villages
located right on the Mekong. We reached our target
distance early, and no one seemed interested in
stopping, so we continued. By midday, I thought we
had reached our destination, but my guests were keen
to push on. A short while further we reached the
turn-off for a shortcut, which I had no intention of
taking but once again Janice was the instigator and
suggested we turn off. It turned out a bumpy and
potholed road but an exciting route, making for a
very adventurous ride.
The
last part of the day we pushed hard to reach
Savannakhet before dark, which we did and I was
happy that we all reached our destination safely.
After a shower, we headed straight for the Night
Market which, sadly, was not there anymore. We did,
however, find the dim-sum stand and had more than
our fair share. All in all, a lovely day on the
road.
Day 29 & 30 - 11 - 12 March - Savannakhet
We
spent a well-deserved rest day in Savannakhet,
wandering the tree-lined streets and enjoying the
old crumbling French colonial buildings. We intended
to cross the
border back into Thailand at the Friendship Bridge
on the outskirts of Savannakhet, but I first wanted
to apply for a Thai visa. As it was a Sunday, I
could only do so the following day.
The
next morning, I was off to the consulate, handed in
my application and as I could only collect it the
following day, I headed back to our guesthouse. It
was Chris’s birthday, and we walked around town,
visiting the small museum that had interesting
artefacts all collected in the vicinity of
Savannakhet.
Later
that day, we had Chris’s birthday ride out to the
nearby lake where we had a sunset meal on a wooden
platform on stilts over the water. We ate while
sitting on a woven mat, not the most comfortable
arrangement for Europeans but Chris never
complained. Afterwards, we had to cycle back along
the potholed road and made it back just as it was
getting dark.
Day 31 - 13 March – Savannakhet – Mukdahan – 15 km
We
packed up at leisure, as I could only pick up my
visa after 14h00. Checkout from our guesthouse was
at 12h00, and there was, therefore, no need to rush.
We went for coffee and cake at a rather fancy
establishment, just to pass the time.
I
cycled off to the consulate while Janice and Chris
cycled to the border. I collected
my
visa and we met at the immigration checkout point.
Cycling across the Friendship Bridge is not allowed
(even though I have done it on more than one
occasion). We bought our bus tickets and then waited
for a bus. Two buses arrived, but none could take
the bicycles. When the third one came, we were first
in line and could load two bikes but not all three.
I decided to make a break for the Thai border, and
as the bus left, I sped across the bridge with
border officials shouting and screaming. I pretended
not to hear and made it to the other side without
being chased down, LOL.
Once
through Thailand immigration, we cycled the short
but pleasant distance into Mukdahan town, found a
Buddhist temple to sleep at and then went looking
for food of which there was no shortage.

Thailand
(1 096km -
20days)
Day 32 - 14 March – Mukdahan – Khemmarat – 91 km
We were
well rested and set off at a good pace. The road ran
close to the Mekong River and albeit hilly at times,
it was comfortable riding to the small village of Khemmarat.

We
headed for Wat Pho, where we asked for permission to
camp, and they promptly pointed us to a lovely room.
The room even had an air-conditioning unit! We found
plenty of mats and pillows to sleep on and soon made
ourselves comfortable. No sooner were we ensconced
in our abode and the heavens opened up. We also
discovered that there was a good reason why the mats
were all piled up in the one corner. The roof was
not only leaking, but the water came pouring in as
if it was a misplaced gutter. We scrambled to get
our electronics (which was all plugged into the by
the wet sockets) out of harm’s way and moved our
mats to the driest corner of the room. Fortunately,
the rain in Southeast Asia comes quick and hard and
soon it was all over.
Day 33 - 15 March - Khemmarat – Ban Pakhachomson -
Ubon Ratchathani – 42km & 105 km by bus
As was
our habit by then, we woke at 5h00 and headed out at
around 6h30. We
followed a pleasant rural road past
the smallest of villages. I'm always in awe of just
how peaceful these communities are. Cattle were
grazing in backyards; kids travelled to school on
tiny bicycles. Women sold snacks at roadside stalls
and men where herding coats and cattle.
We knew
it was going to be a slightly hilly day, but by the
time we reached Ban Pakhachomson we called a halt. I
have cycled this route twice before, and if the
first 35 kilometres was considered hilly, then I
thought the rest of the day too demanding for my
guests. At the small village of Ban Pakhachomson, we
waited at the local police station for a bus to Ubon.
I reckoned it would be easier to get a bus to a big
town than the smaller village of Khong Chiam, where
we were heading. Although we were losing out on a
lovely area of Thailand, it made it more comfortable
for everyone.
Emotionally, it was a very demanding day as I had to
pull the plug on a planned route and was accused of
mocking my guests, as I said that the section we had
done since that morning (according to the MAPS.ME
profile) was the “flat” section. Cycle touring is
not always as idyllic as it appears on Facebook. Neither
is guiding. Phew!
Once in
Ubon, we cycled the six kilometres into the city
centre, where we tried our luck at sleeping at two
of the local temples, but without any success. It is
always far more difficult to get permission to sleep
at a temple in a big city, especially if there are
plenty of guesthouses and hotels. Eventually, we
took a room at the Ubon Hotel, right across the road
from the night market. Albeit pricey, it was very
conveniently located. It was also one of the few
rooms where the water pressure was (nearly) high
enough to blow me out the door. If I did not move
very quickly, outstretching my arms and legs, I
could have been blown right out the door into the
passage! I’m not kidding you!
Day 34 - 16 March - Ubon Ratchathani – Si Sa Khet –
86 km
It was
a lovely day of cycling along small roads and rural
settlements. On arrival in Si Sa Khet, we asked to
camp at two of the city’s temples, but they politely
declined our request. It is always far more
difficult to sleep at temples in a big city, so we
cycled about six kilometres outside the town where
we found a more secluded temple.
Day 35 - 17 March - Si Sa Khet – Khun Han - 78 km
We were
fortunate with the weather as it was overcast and
perfect for cycling. We passed typical Thai rural
scenery where scrawny cows with long ears were
grazing in dry rice fields and smoke billowed from
charcoal pits. We headed in a more southerly
direction to the small village of Khun Han.

On
arrival at Khun Han, we headed straight for the
local temple known as Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew (The
Temple of a Million Bottles). The temple is made of
over 1.5 million Heineken and Chang beer bottles.
The original temple was built in 1984, but the monks
continued to expand the site, and now there are more
than 20 structures, including sleeping bungalows and
toilets.
After
our visit, we cycled off along the nearby lake
looking for camping, but there was none to be found
and headed to the local town temple where we could
camp under a covered area.
Day 36 - 18 March – Khun Han – Surin – 120 km
We
rolled into Surin just before six and after cycling
the mega distance of 120 kilometres. Needless to
say, there were a few sore backsides
in the house,
and I don’t think I was the flavour of the month.
Saying that, I think all was chuffed with themselves
for cycling such a long distance. After a quick
shower, it was time for a Chang beer (or two) and
dim-sum from the stall outside the hotel entrance.
Day 37 - 19 March - Surin
A
well-deserved rest day in Surin. We all had
different things to do so each set off in their own
direction.
Day 38 - 20 March – Surin – Buri Ram Forest Park –
60 km
What a
lovely day of cycling we had. As always, we followed
small roads past rural villages where cattle had the
right of way and were kept in the front yards or
under the stilted houses. Old ladies worked the
fields while men collected animal feed. We cycled
past rice fields and small settlements where the
main junction is still a water well. The road
abruptly ended at a railway line, resulting in us
having to carry our bikes across, not an easy task.
On arrival at Buri Ram Forest Park, we pitched our
tents under a covered area. Although there was no
electricity, there were clean toilets where we could
wash.
Buri
Ram Forest Park consists of an extinct volcano that
rises 265 meters and is home to the Devil Yoni Tree
found only in volcanic areas. Chris kept the fort
while Janice and I walked up to the top and came
down the 297 Naga raj steps, which have Buddha
statues in various poses along the way.
Day 39 - 21 March - Buri Ram Forst Park – Ban Khok
Mueang – 66 km
We left
on a heavily overcast morning, which made for easy
biking. It was a fun day of cycling, and what I
consider real cycle touring. We
turned off to visit
the Phanom Rung Historical Park, and as it is
located up a steep hill, I left my panniers at a
shop at the start of the climb and cycled past
Janice and Chris, who were both huffing and puffing
up the hill. They were not amused! I did, however,
mention the night before that we could leave our
panniers at the shop or take a lift to the park if
we so wished.
We had
a good laugh at the silly situation as we strolled
around ruins dating back 1,000 years. The park is
located at the top of an extinct volcano situated
400 metres above sea level. It is assumed that the
buildings were constructed in the 10th to
the 13th century. It was also a Hindu
shrine dedicated to Shiva.
Karma
nearly got me as it became slightly cold up on the
hill, and I did not have a warm top with me. Phew! I
almost had to ask to borrow a long-sleeved sweater,
LOL.
Once
back to our original route, it was a short
five-kilometre ride to Ban Khok Mueang where we
asked to sleep at the local temple, Wat Prasat
Buraparam. We swept and cleaned the platform where
they indicated we could camp. Janice and I then
walked across the road to visit the Ancient Prasat
Muang Tam. We had the ruins all to ourselves as all
visitors had left, and we were the only people
there. So, we had fun exploring the ruins and
photobombing each other’s photos. However, hunger
pangs drove us back, so we found an excellent noodle
soup restaurant.
Day 40 - 22 March - Ban Khok Mueang (Wat Prasat
Buraparam) – Wat Mai Thai Thavorn – 65 km
We were
up before the monks, but our packing up woke the
temple dogs that started barking continuously. By
the time the monks began beating the gong, the dogs
were in full swing and went from barking to howling.
What a racket!
Our
early start made for a lovely morning ride. Our
plans were to camp at Lam Nang Rong Dam, but we got
there so early that we decided
to continue to Ta
Phraya National Park. Once over the mountain, we
stopped at the park where they allowed us to camp.
The food stalls were, however, three kilometres down
the road, so we cycled on.
We saw
not only the food stalls but also a Wat to camp at.
Wat Mai Thi Thavorn looked slightly forlorn, but we
still asked if we could sleep there. The monks
pointed us to a structure on another side of the
property. The hall was dirty and dusty, but we swept
and mopped for hours on end. We cleaned the Buddha,
washed the floor, lit a few incense sticks, and in
no time at all the place was transformed into a very
usable hall. The monks must have been very impressed
as they kept bringing us water, extension leads, and
even toilet paper! Wow, that was a first! Before
sunset, we cycled to the food stalls where we got
drinks and food for the night.
Day 41 & 42 - 23 - 24 March - Wat Mai Thai Thavorn –
Aranya Prathet – 62 km
As was
our habit by then, we woke at five and were on the
road shortly after six. It was an overcast day with
a tailwind that made for easy riding into Aranya
Prathet where we planned on having a rest day. The
previous day I broke a spoke on the back wheel of
the bicycle and needed to have it replaced. We found
a reasonably priced room at Aran Garden Hotel 1,
which is especially convenient for bicycle
travellers as one can cycle straight into an
undercover area.
It was
time to do laundry and catch up on a few outstanding
things before hitting the streets for our evening
meal.
We also
stayed the following day and did little repair jobs
and stocking up on essential stuff.
Day 43 - 25 March - Aranja Prathet – Khao Chakan
Forest Park – 86 km
Our
first stop of the day was the ruins of Prasat Khao
Noi. The ruins (a Hindu Shrine) are located on top
of Khao Noi, a limestone hill. Originally, the
sanctuary consisted of three prangs, of which only
the one in the middle remains. One of the lintels
discovered here dates back to the 7th century.
Excavations done here revealed interesting artefacts
as well as a stone lintel with inscriptions dating
back to 637 AD. The lintel was, most likely, reused.
As we cycled away, we cycled right through the
Sunday market, which was somewhat unusual.
Along
the way, we took to picking up seeds from the
various trees along the way. Upon closer inspection,
they turned out to be quite fascinating, and each
one unique. Some were light and fluffy, others
sticky or thorny, and some seeds were even inside a
rather solid shell that popped open with a
tremendous bang and shot them a fair distance away.
Eventually, we arrived at Khao Chakan Forest Park
where we explored some of the caves. We were able to
walk up a rather steep flight of stairs to a large
hole in the mountain with a magnificent view of the
countryside. The park would have been great camping,
but the thousands of monkeys made us look for
alternative accommodations. At first, we cycled
around looking for a room but could find none.
Eventually, we pulled into a restaurant where the
map indicated an accommodation. There were no signs
in English, but we found an extraordinary resort,
also known as the Bus Resort. It consisted of buses
converted into overnight accommodations all fitted
with air-conditioning, fridges, and bathrooms. They
were rather comfortable. That night, we ate at their
restaurant, and the food was terrific.
Day 44 - 26 March – Khao Chackan Forest Park –
Sronlai Homestay – 94 km
It was
another wonderful day on the road. The path winded
over the hills and through Khao Ang Rue Nai Wildlife
Sanctuary, where we
saw plenty of fresh elephant
dung on the road but, unfortunately, no wild
elephants. Once we were over the mountains, it was a
downhill ride to the small town of Khlong Takrao.
I had
plans to camp on the opposite side of the dam and
thought of taking a shortcut via the dam wall. On
arrival at the dam, we found it had flooded and had
to cycle around the dam, making for a much longer
day than expected. We did, however, find a beautiful
campsite at Sronlai Homestay, where we could also
rent canoes. Soon, as the sun started heading for
the horizon, we paddled out and had a most relaxing
paddle around the dam.
Day 45 - 27 March – Sronlai Homestay – Phanat Nikhom
– 76 km
What a
marvellous day of riding it turned out to be. We
followed country roads past
rubber tree plantations
and farmers preparing rice fields. We stopped at
temples located atop a steep flight of stairs and
admired not only the view also a dark room with many
Buddha statues tucked away.
On
cycling into Phanat Nikhom, we spotted the sign of
the weaving market and factory. We spent some time
looking at the remarkable work and the largest
hand-woven baskets in the world. Then, it was off to
find accommodation, which we did at a temple outside
the city. It was a busy temple with far too many
temple dogs. A few broom and feather duster salesmen
also pulled in to overnight at the temple. They were
very well organised with sleeping mats and even fans
and cooking equipment.
Day 46 - 28 March – Phatnat Nikhom – Chachoensae –
65 km
It was
a rather noisy night, partly because the dogs went
ballistic every time someone went to the toilet, and
partly due to the Wat being on a busy highway. The
temple had large grounds, and during the night a few
trucks also pulled in to sleep. From early morning,
there was revving of lorries, beating of gongs, dogs
going wild, and the general noise from the highway.
We packed up, waved goodbye to the feather duster
salesmen and monks, and set off with the temple dogs
in tow.

It took
us precisely two kilometres before turning off and
finding the most tranquil rural road. We sighed a
sigh of relief as we slowly made our way to
Chachoensae via small roads. Our small road came to
an end as we encountered roadworks, but a
super-friendly farmer escorted us on his motorbike
by a road that was not on the map.
Once in
Chachoensae, we headed through the busy city to the
old market situated on the banks of the Bang Pakong
River. It is said that the market has been run for
over 100 years. Unfortunately, the market was closed
at the time, and all we could do was wander around
admiring the old wooden structures. As is the
custom, some people live and work here, and we found
them extremely friendly as they invited us to sample
their specialities. We had a coffee at the little
coffee shop overlooking the river and then went in
search of accommodation.
Day 47 - 29 March – Chachoengsao – Bangkok - by
train
The
previous night we decided to take the train into
Bangkok instead of cycling into
the city through
heavy traffic. As there were a wide variety of
trains to pick from, there was no hurry, and we
could cycle to the station at leisure. I woke to a
flat tyre and as Janice and Chris were already
packed and ready to go they cycled off while I fixed
my puncture. Upon our arrival at the station,
however, Janice and Chris were not there. Somehow,
they cycled to the bus station about one kilometre
north of the station. Eventually, they arrived, and
we were on our way to Bangkok. From the Bangkok
railway station, it was a short six-kilometre ride
to Banglamphu and to the Bamboo Guesthouse where we
left their bike boxes. It was, as always, an
unsatisfying way to end a cycling trip, but the
traffic was far too hectic to try and cycle into the
city centre.
Day 48 - 30 March – Bangkok
I took
a canal ferry to the centre of town to collect my
new passport from the embassy, just to find that it
was a South African public holiday and that the
office
would only reopen on April 3. I took a walk
around the shops and eventually walked all the way
back to our accommodation in Banglampu. I then
cycled to Bok Bok Bike where I handed my bicycle in
for a service and to fit two new rims as well as a
new front fork. My front luggage rack was broken and
was being held together with cable ties, which was
not a very stable repair job. A rack for a fork with
shocks is a rather difficult item to get a hold of,
so I decided to go for a fixed fork instead. This
made finding a rack much easier. I expected this all
to cost a pretty penny but there was not much I
could do about it.
In the
meantime, Janice and Chris packed their bicycles
back in the boxes for flying home, but we still had
a good few days to explore Bangkok and the
surrounding area. That evening, we took a walk to
the Gecko bar for a beer, and in the process met up
with Tania as well as Rodd, an amiable guy from New
Zealand.
Day 49 - 31 March - Bangkok
The
previous night we arranged with Rodd to join us for
a day’s excursion to the Samut Songkhram Railway
market and nearby floating market of Amphawa. We had
an early start and caught a taxi for the short ride
to
Wonwian Yai Station where we found the train
tracks in the middle of the road. We boarded the
train to Maha Chai station for only 10 TB. Once at
Maha Chai station, we found that we had to catch a
ferry across the river as there was no train bridge;
again, the fee was a mere 3 TB. A short walk brought
us to Ban Laem Station from where it was another 10
TB ride to Samut Songkhram.
The
Railway market is quite an extraordinary place where
the market spills over onto the rail tracks, leaving
no space for a train. Once a train approaches, the
traders quickly pick up their wares. This allows the
train to pass, and once the train has passed,
everything gets put back in place, and trading
continues as if nothing happened. We had a quick
bowl of noodle soup and then caught a Songthaew (or
Baht Bus) to the Amphawa Floating Market. We arrived
in Amphawa at midday, and as it was still sweltering
hot, we opted for a canal tour at 50 baht per
person. The trip took more than two hours, so on our
return, the weather was much more bearable. Now we
were able to walk around and sample all of the food.
Later, we returned to Bangkok by minivan and headed
straight for the Gecko Bar for a beer.
Day 50 - 1 April – Bangkok

Together with Rodd, we caught a bus to the Chatuchak
Weekend Market. As always, I spent more money than I
had intended to, but the stalls are all so
interesting and inviting. After walking for hours,
we eventually sat down for an iced coffee before
catching the bus back to Banglamphu. As usual, we
went in search of a 70 TB beer, which we found right
on Khao San Road. Here, we sat on small plastic
chairs outside the 7-11 and watched the world go by.
Day 51 - 2 April – Bangkok
Janice
and I went in search of a precision tool for her art
projects but could find none. I, however, found a
map of both Thailand and Southeast Asia, something I
had been seeking for some time.
Meanwhile, Janice bought me a camera backpack as a
thank you gift. I was somewhat embarrassed by this
very generous token of appreciation, but at the same
time, I was over the moon about my present and had
it on my back for the rest of the day. |